This quote sounds great, doesn’t it? I like reassuring precision and total exhilaration – doesn’t everyone? Reading it reminds me of a buddy of mine named Kris. He owned a 1992 Mitsubishi 3000GT and used to bring it into my shop for regular scheduled maintenance. During the four years he owned the car, his comments regularly substantiated Mitsubishi’s brochure claims. He’d say things like, “This thing is an absolute rocket and for the money, it’s the best sports car on the market.”

One rainy, winter morning, I got a call. “Dude, my car won’t start,” whined the voice on the other end of the phone. “Hi Kris,” I replied, recognizing the voice, but not attitude. “I can get it towed to the shop this morning,” I said. “Do you need a ride?” “No thanks,” he answered. “I got one. Man, I hope it’s nothing serious, I got a blind date tonight.” Now I understood the attitude. I reassured him that I would do my best to get the car fixed that day. After all, what are friends for?

Even before Kris’ pride and joy arrived, I went to ALLDATA Online to check the most current technical service bulletins (TSBs) for his car. Since we had been doing all of the scheduled services, I knew all the basic possibilities were covered.

I found a recent TSB that offered a possible explanation, and here is what it described. If a 1991 or 1992 3000GT cranks but does not start, the cause may be traced to corrosion in two wires of the A-67 connector.

The 12-pin, A-67 connector is located behind the right-side headlight, next to the main relay junction box.

There are two wires in the A-67 connector that are subject to corrosion. One is the 0.5 BW wire (black wire with white tracer). The other is the 1.25 RB wire (red wire with black tracer).

Repair Procedure
(Review safety procedures contained in the ALLDATA^® system before beginning)

1. Record the radio presets, and disconnect the negative battery terminal.
2. Loosen the airflow sensor rear clamp and the four air filter clips. Remove the airflow sensor wiring harness, airflow sensor housing, and air filter.
3. Remove the two 10 mm bolts and one 10 mm nut holding the air filter base. Remove the air filter base. The A-67 connector is now accessible.
4. Disconnect the A-67 connector and locate the BW and RB wires.
5. Cut the BW and RB wires, leaving about 3/8" wire on both sides of the connector.
   
   
6. Re-connect the BW and RB wires using a commercially available, high quality, waterproof, 2-pin connector.
   • NOTES:
   1. For best results, solder each wire to its terminal, and crimp the terminals’ metal tabs onto the wires’ insulation before inserting the wire into the connector.
   2. The 2-pin, waterproof connectors are not available from Mitsubishi Motors. Obtain the connectors from a reputable electronics supplier.
7. Before re-connecting the A-67 connector, clean out each terminal end using a point cleaner. To prevent future corrosion in the connector, insulate the two cut wire ends with silicone sealant and electrician's tape.
8. After cleaning the terminal ends and insulating the two wire ends, re-connect the A-67 connector.
9. Install the air filter base, air filter, and sensor housing. Re-connect the airflow sensor wiring harness, tighten the airflow sensor rear clamp, and secure the air filter clips.
10. Re-connect the negative battery terminal, set the clock and radio, and verify that the vehicle starts and runs normally.

As it turned out, Kris’ car had corroded wires in the A-67 connector. I made the repairs outlined in the TSB and charged him a little over an hour labor. Kris picked up his car in plenty of time make his date. I guess the date went well. One year later, they got married.

Mitsubishi^® and 3000GT^® are registered trademark names and model designations of the Mitsubishi Motors. All trademark names and model designations are being used solely for reference and application purposes.

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